From the start of this walk at Portland Bill, on a clear day you can see more of the coast than from any other point on the South West Coast Path. To your west the view stretches around to Start Point in South Devon, whilst eastwards you can see as far as Durlston Head. This takes in 190 miles of the Coast Path - almost a third of its total length.
Leaving the Bill take the path leading to the north east past some beach huts. After a few hundred metres you will come across the first of several cranes used in the past for loading barges with quarried blocks of stone, with one now being used to lower boats into the water. Continuing onwards the path runs through quarries, which have now been reclaimed by nature and in the spring and summer are full of butterflies and limestone-loving flowers.
After a brief section ascending up to and along the road, you then descend back down to Church Ope Cove, the only beach on this side of the island. Overlooking the Cove are the remains of the 15th Century Rufus Castle, built as a coastal defence against French raids. Unfortunately part of the ramparts collapsed in 2005, with some of the stones falling down onto the Coast Path. Whilst efforts are being made to make the structure safe, this section has been closed and a diversion is currently in place around the rear of the castle. This takes you past the ruins of Rufus church surrounded by fascinating ancient gravestones, on several of which you can make out the carving of a ‘pirate’ skull and cross bones. You also pass the tiny, thatched Portland museum, famous as the setting of the home of the heroines in Thomas Hardy’s ‘The Well-Beloved’, and now hosting displays about Portland’s history.
The Coast Path continues northwards along the cliff tops overlooking the ‘Weares’ – coastal slopes that in the past were exploited for their stone and are now a haven for wildlife and a popular spot for climbers. From here if conditions are right you will have a great view eastwards along the Jurassic Coast, with the switchback of chalk cliffs between White Nothe and Wolbarrow. Further along you may be able to make out the Clavel Tower at Kimmeridge, and then St Aldhelm’s Head and finally Durlston Head.
After passing seaward of the Young Offenders Institution on a tarmac track, the path heads inland slightly following quarry tracks through to the Verne Citadel. The Citadel with its impressive moat and entrance tunnel, was originally built as a fortress for 1000 soldiers, but is now a medium security prison. A display panel near the entrance has more information about its construction and history.
Continue following the road westwards, to Portland Heights and the end of the walk. Along this final section a new view opens up with Portland Harbour spread out below you. This was once a vital naval port, and now due to its sheltered waters and consistent winds, home of the National Sailing Centre. It will also be the venue for sailing in the 2012 Olympics.
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