The complete walk is most easily done in summer as there are three rivers (the Yealm, the Erme and the Avon) as well as the Kingsbridge estuary to cross during the four days. The Yealm and the Avon are both crossed by ferry during the summer only and the hours of service are very restricted. Crossing the rivers will add something special to your walk, more than outweighing the need to plan your walking to arrive at the rivers at the right times. The operating months and times of all ferry services can be found in the 'Useful Information' section of the web site. The ferry across the Kingsbridge estuary operates all year. The Erme must be crossed on foot during the period an hour either side of low tide. For times of low water, please look in the local press or contact the Plymouth Tourist Information Centre (tel: +44 (0)1752 304849 and 227865).
Day 1 Plymouth (Mountbatten Point) to Wembury (Warren Point), 7.3 miles
To complete the walk in winter, you can avoid long walking detours around the estuaries either by taking public transport where available (in which case it’s mentioned in the description of the walk) or a taxi (phone the National Taxi Hotline 0800 654321), or by finding overnight accommodation which provides a pick up and drop service (for which there will be a charge).
The Plymouth starting point makes it straightforward to reach this walk by public transport. It is an easy walk from both the railway and bus stations to Sutton Harbour adjacent to Plymouth’s historic Barbican. Here you can catch the ferry for Mountbatten from Phoenix Wharf.
Heading east from Mountbatten – site of a former RAF station and Air Sea Rescue establishment - to Jennycliff you are on the eastern part of Plymouth’s Waterfront Walkway, one of the newest sections of the Coast Path. After Jennycliff, you’ll walk through coastal woodlands before the path opens out onto the cliff top with panoramic views. You will drop down to Fort Bovisand (part of Plymouth’s nineteenth century defences and now a diving school) and continue on to Heybrook Bay, passing the former Royal Navy Gunnery School, HMS Cambridge.
Wembury is the start of a four mile stretch of coast which became a Voluntary Marine Conservation Area in 1981 because of its unusually rich marine life. It’s worth taking some time to explore the beach, and the Marine Centre run by the Devon Wildlife Trust. There is also a church with fine monuments and links with Australia and the armed forces. From the church the Coast Path passes along National Trust land to the Rocket House where coastguard equipment used to be stored. From there you have a short drop down to Warren Point and the River Yealm ferry crossing point where there is a signal board to hail the ferryman in season. You should cross the river today if possible, to give yourself more time for the longer walk tomorrow!
If the ferry is not in service, there is a regular bus service from Wembury back to Plymouth from which there is an
infrequent service to Noss Mayo.
Day 2 Ferry steps, River Yealm to Bigbury-on-Sea, 13.5 miles
Today’s walk takes you from the eastern bank of the Yealm to Bigbury. The River Erme is about 9 miles (14 kms) ahead and can be crossed on foot for an hour either side of low tide between the two slipways.
Following the path out towards the mouth of the estuary you will walk through oak woodland before continuing out along the Revelstoke Drive –a wide level track constructed in the nineteenth century as a carriage drive for Lord Revelstoke to show his splendid coastal property off to his guests. It passes along the Warren (where rabbits used to be farmed) and offers grand views towards Bolt Head in the east and Rame Head to the west. On a clear day the Eddystone Lighthouse is visible out to sea. You are likely to see cirl buntings, turnstones and peregrines along this section. Soon after crossing the tarmac road that descends to Stoke Beach you will leave the carriage drive at a ruined building known as Lady Catherine’s tearoom.
Continuing on to the Erme estuary you will pass Saddle and St Anchorite’s Rocks before reaching the beach at Meadowsfoot. Cross the top of the beach and go around a wooded point at Owen’s Hill then drop onto the river beach and head for the terrace of old coastguards cottages. From there you will see a slipway running down to the beach on the east side of the river – you will need to wait until one hour either side of low tide for the water to be shallow enough to ford the river safely. Then, take off boots and socks and go for it. Make for the slipway and at dead low tide the water will not come above your knees. The cold water will be refreshing and to complete your enjoyment you can walk seawards on the east bank to Wonwell Beach before putting your boots on again.
The 5.5 miles (9kms) to Bigbury-on-Sea are graded as difficult but the scenery is very rewarding and if you cross the Erme at a reasonable time you have the rest of the day to get there. Offshore, Burgh Island is connected to the mainland by an isthmus of sand for several hours a day, and at other times can be reached by taking the strange looking sea tractor. The island boasts an Art Deco hotel, visited by Agatha Christie and Noel Coward as well as a pub and the remains of a huer’s hut.
Day 3 Bigbury on Sea to Salcombe, 13.7 miles
Your first task is to cross the River Avon from the ferry point at Cockleridge - just over a mile away. You should NOT attempt to wade this river. When the ferry is not operating if you want to walk rather than take transport of some kind, there is a waymarked path around the estuary to Bantham. This adds 9 miles to the journey and is not included in this itinerary.
The Coast Path from Bantham to Hope Cove, 5.7 miles (9.2 kms) is easy and passes a sandy beach and spectacular offshore arch at Thurlestone. Watch out for golfers when you reach the links here and stand still if someone is driving off unless the players beckon you through. From Inner Hope the Coast Path rises steadily to Bolberry Down, owned and managed by the National Trust. There is a long level section before the drop down into beautiful Soar Mill Cove. After the steady climb out again the Coast Path is high, level and surrounded by golden gorse.
From Bolt Head onwards you will notice weirdly weathered rocks around and above you. The Coast Path circles Starehole Bay where the seaweed clad hull of the sunken ‘tall ship’, the Herzogin Cecilie can be made out at dead low water. The Coast Path now runs along a path built in Victorian times around the point at Sharp Tor and on to South Sands at Salcombe, then North Sands and on into the town. However in summer there is a regular ferry service from South Sands into the town, so why not “go to sea” for a change to end the day? I won’t regard it as cheating!
Day 4 Salcombe to Torcross. 12.9 miles
The day starts with another ferry crossing from Salcombe to East Portlemouth. This sevice operates all the year round.
If you think your walk so far has been great, this section is magnificent. To me this is what Coast Path walking is all about. You will pass along Rickham Common to a point just below the Gara Rock Hotel – just about at the time you need a little something, so why not take some refreshment here?
Continuing onwards, when you reach Prawle Point you will be the most southerly person in Devon. Rounding the corner from the Point, the Path is at a lower level on a raised beach with the now fossilised cliffline to your left. Both features reflect a time when the sea level was higher than it is now, during the last Ice Age. After passing the beach at Great Mattiscombe (pronounced Matchcombe) Sand you will reach the narrow promontory of Start Point with its craggy rock outcrops and strong tidal currents. Start Point Lighthouse, now automatically operated, is worth a visit.
From here you will have the whole of Start Bay before you, as the Path follows the coast northwards to your destination at Torcross. En route a viewing platform will allow you to view the ruined village of Hallsands below the Path. The last lap of the walk is easier and passes Beesands with its Cricket Inn and the small lake of Widdicombe Ley before you reach Torcross.
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