Victorian Contrasts – fish, garden and clay. - a short walk using the South West Coast Path



Short Walks (up to one day) Suitable for Heritage Suitable for Wildlife Suitable for Scenery
Walk name: Victorian Contrasts – fish, garden and clay.
: Mevagissey Harbour
Finish location: Mevagissey Harbour
Distance: 7 miles (10km)
Grade Moderate
Terrain The inland loop of the circuit follows a promoted cycle route, with consequently good surfaces and generally gentle gradients; the Coast Path has a couple of more noticeable climbs and one descent.
Circular Walk: Yes
Free from obstacles & steep gradients: No

Walk description:

Mevagissey is an attractive village on the south coast of Cornwall. Its narrow streets clustered round its harbour with houses rising steeply around make it the perfect example of the Cornish fishing village. The village is first recorded in 1313 and has been involved in fishing for many centuries. The first pier was built here as early as 1430 and the current inner harbour in 1770-73. In the late 1800s the outer harbour was added. The mainstay of the fishing fleet was pilchards, but these largely disappeared at the end of the 19th century. Nevertheless, fishing remains an integral part of Mevagissey’s life. The walk starts, appropriately, on the harbourside, outside the Harbour Tavern. From here, facing the harbour, turn left. Opposite the slipway at the end of the harbour is an information board giving some details on Mevagissey and its history. At the end of the harbour turn left, inland, and follow the cobbled street to the Post Office. At the tarmac road, Church Street, bear right. Keep ahead at the junction then when the road forks keep left on the lower, narrower road. A little way along this road is Mevagissey’s church. There are traces of Norman work in the building, but most of it dates from the 1400s. It is now dedicated to St Peter, but historically to two more obscure Cornish saints, giving rise to the settlement’s name from the Cornish “Meva hag Issy” (meaning Meva and Issy, the names of the two saints). As the road bears right around the church and begins to climb, turn left down the narrower lane which soon arrives at the B3273 St Austell-Mevagissey road. Cross this carefully (be careful of traffic coming round the bend from the right), then bear left along the lane signed as a footpath and cycleway to Heligan. This is part of the Cornish Way cycle route. This is part of route 3 of the National Cycle Network, and is itself split into sections, this one the Coast and Clay Trail, and all these titles are found on the various signposts. Despite its status, the number of cyclists should not raise any problems to walkers. Follow this excellent path along the attractive valley, forking left just after Cheesewarne Farmhouse. Keep along the valley bottom to another fork, at a gate, and bear right here, slightly uphill on the cycle route. Through the gate straight ahead the public footpath leads to the http://www.heligan.com/"target="_blank">The Lost Gardens of Heligan . This estate was owned by the Tremayne family for 400 years and it was they who established gardens here in Victorian times. When the staff were called to service during World War I most failed to return and the gardens fell into disrepair. They were discovered and restored in 1990 and are open to the public. Continue uphill, out of the valley, gently at first then a little more steeply. From the top there are excellent views over much of the Heligan estate. Among the work done there is a wildlife project specialising in ensuring conditions are right for the local barn owl population; keep aware, you may be lucky enough to see one of these magnificent birds. The path curves around the head of the valley then forks again. Go left here, over a wooden bridge and still on the cycle route, then continue parallel to the Mevagissey-Gorran Haven road. Shortly after passing some ruined farm buildings (keep specially alert for barn owls here) there is another junction. The path bearing left is another route into Heligan, but for the Coast Path circular bear right to pass underneath the road. This overbridge would have been built for the Tremaynes in the 19th century to ensure the privacy of the estate. The path descends steadily through a quiet wooded landscape towards a valley visible through the trees, eventually reaching the valley floor. This is the Pentewan Valley, cut by the St Austell River on its way to the sea. It was a major transport corridor in the 1800s between the St Austell china clay area and a harbour at Pentewan on the coast. At the valley floor the path comes parallel to the B3273 St Austell-Mevagissey road. Continue ahead, crossing the road with the cycleway at the nurseries. A little further on, just past the caravan site, the path turns right away from the road and crosses the St Austell River to a junction on the far side. At this point the Cornish Way turns left on its way to St Austell and points north and east. However, a branch of the cycleway goes right, to the sea at Pentewan, and this is the route now followed. Note that the river has been straightened and its banks strengthened. In former times it used to run white with discharge from the china clay pits inland of St Austell. When the riverside track divides keep left on the main route, away from the river and into the woods. The track now followed through the wet woodland is on the line of an old horse-drawn tramroad, built in 1830 to carry china clay to the harbour at Pentewan. In 1874 it became a proper narrow-gauge railway, but closed in 1918 because of the silting up of the harbour. Approaching Pentewan the track diverts to the right away from the line of the tramroad, then bears left past a cycle hire business to arrive at a road. At the road turn left for a short diversion into Pentewan village and its pub, refreshments and toilets. Here will also be seen the old harbour. A first harbour was built here in 1744 but the present one dates from 1820. However it became blocked by natural sand build-up and by china clay silt coming down the St Austell River and was last used in 1929. The basin is now separated from the sea and is filled with fresh water. To continue, return to the cycle hire and continue along the road (if missing the diversion to the village, turn right at the road after the cycle hire). At the main road turn left, now on the line of the Coast Path for the return to Mevagissey. Leave the road along the footpath next to the entrance to Pentewan Sands Holiday Park. After skirting the holiday park keep an eye open for a kissing-gate on the left which takes the Coast Path off the hedged path and along a field edge to the cliff top. On the cliffs, the path descends almost at once to the little cove at Portgiskey. The ruined buildings are pilchard cellars and boatyards, all abandoned in the late 1800s. The path now begins the climb to the headland of Penare Point. From this length there are superb views back over Pentewan Sands to the prominent Black Head. Beyond, on the far side of St Austell Bay, it should be possible to see the red and white striped landmark on Gribbin Head, built in 1832 to mark the entrance to Fowey Harbour. Beyond, the coast continues away, with views possible as far as Rame Head, at the mouth of Plymouth Sound, if it is really clear. Follow the Coast Path up and round Penare Point. Rounding Penare Point the harbour at Mevagissey comes into view ahead, the regular walls contrasting with the jagged rocks. This is the outer harbour, built in the late 1800s to increase the village’s fishing potential. The Coast Path descends steeply into a narrow valley, climbing out again to the outskirts of Mevagissey. Cross a grassy recreation area then descend on a tarmac path and down steps past cottages on The Cliff, above the harbour. This is among the oldest parts of Mevagissey, with cottages below built into the cliff rock next to the harbour wharves. Nearing the bottom fork left to return to the harbour.

Public transport information:
Mevagissey is served by First Devon and Cornwall route 26 from St Austell, hourly Monday-Saturday and 26B from Fowey and St Austell, hourly Sundays; and by Western Greyhound route 526 from St Austell and Gorran Haven, every two hours. On the route of the walk, Pentewan is served by the same bus routes.
See also Traveline or phone 0871 200 2233.
Toilets:
There are a number of public toilets in Mevagissey; the most useful will be in Valley Road on the approach into the village(grid ref: SX 013 450) and on the harbourside at West Wharf (grid ref: SX 016 447) and East Wharf (grid ref: SX 017 448) – all have disabled provision but those on the harbourside are open seasonally. On the route of the walk there are toilets at Pentewan (including disabled provision) (grid ref: SX 019 473).
Nearest Car parks:
Postcode for Sat Nav's PL26 6SU.
There are numerous car parks in Mevagissey; the biggest and most obvious is on the approach to the village in Valley Road (no disabled bays) (grid ref: SX 013 451) and there are smaller ones nearby (signposted – none with disabled bays); on the route of the walk there is a car park in Pentewan (no disabled bays) (grid ref: SX 018 473
Nearest refreshments:
Mevagissey has a wide range of shops, pubs and refreshments; on the route of the walk there is a pub at Pentewan (grid ref: SX 018 472) and seasonal refreshments at Pentewan (grid ref: SX 019 472); there is also a year-round shop for supplies in the petrol station on the B3273 next to Pentewan (grid ref: SX 017 473).
Further Information:
Mevagissey Tourist Information Centre (seasonal) off Church Street (grid ref: SX 015 449); there are information boards on Mevagissey harbourside (grid ref: SX 015 448) and adjacent to the cycle hire at Pentewan (grid ref: SX 019 473).
OS Explorer Map number: 105


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PICTURE: Mevagissey Harbour. Photographer Stuart Tormey
Mevagissey Harbour. Photographer Stuart Tormey

Click to enlarge
Click map to enlarge This map is reproduced from Ordnance Survey material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office © Crown copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. The Countryside Agency. Licence Number: 100018881
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