Section: Par to Polperro

Length: 14 miles (22km)

Distance from Minehead to Par: 372.8

Distance from Polperro to Poole: 246.4

Grading: Moderate to strenuous

Height gained (and also lost): 2730ft (832M)

Summary:

The Coast Path follows part of the National Cycle Network round Par Sands where the views to Gribbin Head contrast dramatically with the china clay works of Par. After a fairly easy stretch from Polkerris to the daymark of Gribbin Head, follow the Path along high cliffs passing coves and walking out to headlands with fantastic views. Fowey sits on a beautiful estuary with tidal creeks full of families of birds such as herons, curlews, redshanks and little egret. The historic town is an ideal place to rest and find refreshments before the ferry crossing to Polruan. The wild beauty of this area of the Cornish coast was inspiration for Daphne du Maurier, Kenneth Grahame and many other writers and artists. Much of the next stretch from Polruan to Polperro is owned by the National Trust and the Path climbs and zig zags over towering, rugged cliffs and dips down to small rocky coves, providing fantastic scenery but very tiring walking. You can rest and take in the views on one of the seats found on the seaward Path which leads down to the village of Polperro.

Highlights along the path:

• Exploring the dunes of Par Sands.
• Views of the Path ahead from Polmear to Gribbin Head.
• Polkerris.
• Gribbin Head with its striking red and white daymark, built by Trinity House in 1832. The 18th century elm wood is carpeted with strong smelling wild garlic in the spring.
• Polridmouth: The building behind the second sandy cove was the inspiration for the beach house in Daphne du Maurier’s novel Rebecca. Du Maurier lived further up the valley in the Elizabethan house called Menabilly Barton and this is her mysterious ‘Manderley’.
• The tiny cove at Coombe Hawne, linked with many smuggling stories, is surrounded by cliffs of ox-eye daisies and pink thrift in the spring and summer months.
• The ruins of St Catherine’s Castle standing guard over the entrance to Fowey harbour: Now owned by English Heritage, the castle was built in 1542 by Thomas Treffry as part of Henry VIII's chain of defences along the south Cornish coast. The Victorian gun platform was used in the Second World War.
• Readymoney Cove.
• Fowey: Loved by famous literary figures for its architecture and tranquility, Fowey continues to offer visitors a wealth of character and history, in spite of the occasional ships of china clay. J.M Barrie, the author of Peter Pan, described the town as like “a toy town...hemmed in so picturesquely by cliffs and ruins that of a moonlight night it might pass for a scene in a theatre.” The church of St Fimbarrus has a Norman font, a clerestory and the tower, thought to be the second tallest in Cornwall, dates from the 1460s. You may also like to visit the Daphne du Maurier Literary Centre in South Street or explore the streets and shops around the harbour.
• The beautiful views of the estuary on the foot ferry crossing from Fowey to Polruan.
• Views from Pencarrow Head across the sandy cove of Lantic Bay which is backed by wild plants. Views from here also extend to The Lizard and Bolt Head to the east.
• Looking down from Raphael Cliff to the natural rock arch at Blackybale Point.
• Taking a well-deserved rest in the cafes of Polperro.

Worth a look (interesting places close to the path):

• The Saint’s Way: If you felt like changing direction, you could set off on one of Cornwall’s oldest walking routes, which is said to originate from the Bronze Age. The 30 mile trail from Padstow to Fowey was thought to have been followed by holy travellers going between Ireland, Wales and Britanny.
• The Eden Project.
• The impressive Iron Age hill fort of Castle Dore: The very well preserved circular ramparts date from 200BC. It is near the B3269 north of Fowey.
• The Tristan Stone: A 6th century, 9ft tall stone just north of Fowey. The inscription, which is now illegible, once read Drustans hic iacet Cunomori filius , which means Here lies Tristan son of Cunomorus . Legend has it that Tristan, heir to the throne of Lyonesse in the Arthurian stories, was actually the nephew of Marcus Cunomorus, King Mark of Cornwall. When Tristan was sent to Ireland to fetch King Mark's bride to be, Iseult or Isolde, he and Isolde drank a love potion and became lovers, resulting in a bitter feud with King Mark and the inevitable tragic deaths of the two lovers. The story became a Wagner opera and inspired many other writers, including Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch and Daphne du Maurier.

Shorter option:

Fowey (6.8 miles, 10.9 km)

Longer option:

Looe (an additional 5 miles, 8 km)

Public transport info:

St Austell has a mainline train station and the bus station is within easy walking distance. The very regular First Cornwall bus service number 25 runs from St Austell to Par, Polkerris and Fowey. The Fowey to Polruan ferry runs all year round. Contact the Polruan Ferry Company Ltd. on 01726 870232 for details. The Liskeard & District Omnibus Co. bus number 281 runs between Polruan and Crumplehorn, above Polperro, stopping at Lansallos. For details visit Traveline or phone 0870 6082608.

Refreshments:

Cream teas are available at National Trust tearooms of Coombe Farm above Coombe Hawne, Tel: 01726 833123, and other refreshments can be found at Polkerris and Polruan. Fowey has a good range of pubs, shops, restaurants and cafes. For locally sourced produce you could try the Tiffins Delicatessen and Bakery on Fore Street: a Taste of the West member which sells handmade breads, cakes and pastries and soup, pasties and sandwiches to takeaway. There are also shops, pubs and restaurants in Polperro, including the Taste of the West member The Kitchen Tearoom & Restaurant, The Coombes, Tel: 01503 272780, which serves local, home cooked produce.

Nearest Car park:

Par (Postcode for Sat Navs:PL24 2AF), Polmear, Polkerris, inland at Hambland, Fowey, Polruan, inland from Lantic Bay, Lansallos and Polperro.

Toilets:

Par, Polkerris, Fowey, Polruan, inland in Lansallos and Polperro.

More information:

Fowey Tourist Information Centre tel:01726 879500. St Austell Tourist Information Centre tel: 0845 094 0428 or 01726 879500.

Previous section

Next section