The spectacular hogs back cliffs of the Exmoor coast
 See
the Walks for Everyone
pages to find descriptions of Coast Path
walks which are especially good for scenery. You can search
for a walk that is known for its landscape as well as by area,
length and degree of difficulty.
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| Explore... the nooks and crannies of the stunning
coastline. Choose from rugged cliffs or sheltered coves
and valleys. Visit fishing harbours busy or quiet with
the ebb and flow of the tide, or bustling ports and
resorts, each one unique. |
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Stunning coastal scenery goes hand in hand with the South
West Coast Path. For no less than 74% of its length, the
Coast Path journeys through protected landscapes – one
National
Park and five Areas
of Outstanding Natural Beauty,
and one third is owned and cared for by the National
Trust.
As you walk the Path you will recognise the distinctive character
of different areas.
The coastline between Exmouth in East Devon and Studland in Dorset has
been designated a natural World Heritage
Site; the coastal landscapes
are as much a part of as the story as the rocks themselves, and
reflect the action of the elements on the varied geology over millions
of years.
Here are just a few Coast Path scenery highlights.
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Exmoor and North Devon – A
Diverse Coastline
Exmoor’s coastline is impressively varied. Hogs-back
cliffs plunge to the rocky shoreline below, ancient oak woodland
clings to the slopes, marshland spreads behind Porlock’s
shingle ridge, and in late summer the moorland is alive with
gorse and heather.
In North Devon you’ll find an equally diverse landscape
scattered with picturesque cob and thatch villages. Choose
from wide sandy bays enclosed by broad headlands and the
ever-changing salt marshes, dune systems, sand and mudflats
associated with the Taw and Torridge estuaries.
Hartland and North Cornwall – Atlantic
Coast and Valleys
Dramatic and wild, this stretch of coastline is best experienced
in autumn and winter, when dark clouds and raging seas match
the scenery. Isolated trees are stunted by exposure to salt
laden winds. Just inland, the occasional tiny hamlets and
isolated farmsteads only enhance the strong sense of wildness.
Where the high coastal ridges meet the sea, sheer cliffs
plunge to a striking wave cut platform of folded and faulted
rocks. Numerous streams dissect the plateau, forming deeply
incised valleys with small, tumbling waterfalls. The craggy
coastline is punctuated with stacks and arches, headlands,
blowholes and rocky coves. Along its length you will find
small, characterful, fishing villages – Crackington
Haven, Boscastle, and Port Isaac – always welcoming
for the Coast Path walker.
West Penwith – A
Land Apart
Beyond St Ives and Penzance lies the unique peninsula of
West Penwith. Natural forces dominate and the rugged mass
of granite exposed to the Atlantic often feels remote and
wild.
And yet there is evidence of human activity since the Neolithic
period (4,000 – 2,500 BC). There are ancient sites
like the Iron Age cliff castles at Gurnard’s Head and
Bosigran and a pattern of tiny fields that has existed for
at least 2,000 years. Fishing settlements developed in the
south, while tin and copper mining around Pendeen and St
Just has left a veneer of redundant engine houses and shafts.
The changing hues of the coastal heathland are complemented
by the remarkable quality of light. But it is the granite
that remains dominant. Whether in the spectacular, jointed
cliffs, the stone-faced hedgebanks or the church towers,
West Penwith’s geology is constantly visible.
The Lizard – The
Most Southerly Peninsula
The windswept heathland plateau of the LIzard is edged by
a magnificent coastline of multi-coloured cliffs, open bays
and sheltered coves. The serpentine rock for which the area
is known has given rise to a very local quarrying and stone
polishing industry.
The western coast is sea-battered with the single village
of Mullion, while the eastern side is home to several fishing
villages of white-washed cottages with slate or thatched
roofs. Of medieval or post-medieval origin, they expanded
in the nineteenth century for pilchard fishing.
The Fal
Estuary and Roseland Peninsula – A Busy Port
and Hidden Cornwall
The huge expanse of the Fal estuary makes Falmouth the third
largest natural harbour in the world. It is one of the many
rias found along the southern coast of Cornwall and Devon
- estuaries that were ‘drowned’ as sea level
rose with the end of the last glaciation.
The Roseland Peninsula is softer than much of Cornwall,
and provides a peaceful haven. On the coast of its gently
undulating plateau there are many sheltered, south facing
sandy beaches - Pendower, Carne, Hemmick – and the
dramatic Bow and Great Perhaver Beaches with their sweeps
of silvery, slatey sand.
The major headlands are of harder rock. Dodman Point and
Black Head have Iron Age fortifications, whilst off Nare
Head, the turf-covered Full Rock is a dramatic feature with
its colonies of nesting seabirds.
The area has extensive coastal heathland and scrub, with
oak and beech woodland in the valleys. Small villages, developed
from fishing harbours can be found along the coast, Mevagissey
being the largest.
South East Cornwall – Lush
and Green
Often bypassed, the varied coastline of this area includes
distinctive headlands, magnificent bays, farmed landscapes
and wild coastal heathland.
Gribbin Head, with its beacon and daymark, provides magnificent
views eastward. You will see scrub-covered cliffs, with slatey
rocks projecting into the sea beyond the gently sloping coastal
fields. Fowey and Polruan are clustered on the steep slopes
of the Fowey estuary, their tiered houses reflecting the
bright coastal light. Further east you can immerse yourself
in the bustle of Polperro and Looe, villages founded on fishing
and now alive with visitors.
Rame Head is almost a peninsula, and overlooking Plymouth,
has a strategic importance reflected in the fortifications
at Tregantle, Picklecombe and Penlee Point. At first rugged,
it becomes more sheltered towards the city and the woodlands
and parkland landscape of Mount Edgcumbe line the Coast
Path.
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