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Penwith
- Granite
Between St Ives and Penzance, the Coast
Path crosses granite, formed from molten rock (or magma)
from deep beneath the earth’s surface. The granites
in South West England were forced into the pre-existing
rocks during a period of mountain-building 280-300 million
years ago.
The slow cooling of the magma made the granite coarse-grained,
and if you pick a piece up you will be able to see that
it is made up of three minerals (glassy quartz, feldspar
and shiny flakes of mica). On a larger scale, the cooling
of the magma also gave rise to the joints visible in the
area’s
sheer blocky cliffs.
South Devon - Schists
The rocks between Bolt Tail and Start
Point are like few others that you will see on the Coast
Path. The oldest rocks in Devon, they are known as schists
- rocks which have been altered by intense heat and pressure.
Most of them are mica schists – a shiny rock characterised
by the predominance of the flaky mineral mica. Pressure
and heat have aligned the flakes and made a normally soft
mineral into a very hard rock. This means that it resists
erosion well and strongly influences the outline of this
part of the South Devon coastline.
The schist forms jagged pinnacles above the Coast Path around
Bolt Head. You may also notice it in some very distinctive
stone hedge banks that you can see close to the Path.
Torbay-Limestone and red beds
Torbay, despite being a built
up area, has some spectacular Coast Path scenery and geology.
Here the rocks were literally turned upside down by earth
movements during a mountain building phase 280-300 million
years ago. Large scale folding and faulting of the rocks
can be seen around Thatcher Rock and Hopes Nose. At Meadfoot
strange fossils in the limestone tell us about tropical reefs
of the Devonian period. Around Goodrington, younger rocks
that formed as the mountains were eroded in a hot arid environment,
contain boulders and pebbles from the older limestones and
shales. These red beds form the headlands at Livermead and
Roundham Head.
In 2007, the importance of this geological heritage was recognized when the English Riviera Geopark was designated. Recognised by UNESCO and one of only seven geoparks in the UK, it consists of 32 separate sites. Most of which lie along the route of the Coast Path. Between them they cover 3 geological time periods and no less than 400 million years of earth history.
A
Walk through Time - Dorset and East Devon, the Jurassic Coast
World Heritage Site
England’s first natural World Heritage Site, stretching
from Exmouth in East Devon to Old Harry Rocks in Dorset,
gives a unique insight into earth science. Its rocks record
185 million years of the Earth’s history through the
Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods – the ‘Middle
Ages’ of life on Earth.
Each of the World Heritage Site’s 95 miles offers
something new to discover, but here are a few of the more
visible features, easily seen from the Coast Path...
The red rocks for which Devon is so well-known are seen
in the cliffs between Exmouth and Sidmouth. Their vibrant
rusty colour shows they were formed in desert conditions;
these prevailed in the Triassic Period, 250-200 millions
years ago.
The Undercliff National Nature Reserve between Seaton and
Lyme Regis is formed from landslips, as sandstones overlie
clay and rain reaching the clay layer has made one layer
slide over another. On Christmas Eve 1839, an enormous landslide
took place at Bindon. A huge piece of land, known locally
as Goat Island, moved towards the sea, leaving a deep chasm.
Landslides still occur today, making the Undercliff a very
wild and special place.
Chesil Beach is over 17 miles (28 km) long and is made up
of shingle and pebbles which increase in size towards the
east (smugglers apparently knew exactly where they had landed
on the beach from the size of the pebbles). There is still
debate about how Chesil Beach was formed, although the traditional
view is that it has been driven onshore by rising seas levels
following the last Ice Age, about 7,000 years ago.
The Isle of Portland’s geology is dramatic. West Weare
Cliffs rise majestically from the sea displaying layers of
Portland Limestone, Portland Sand and Kimmeridge Clay. On
the east of the Island look out for the stunning fossil forest,
where doughnut- shaped blocks of limestone indicate where
tropical trees were swamped some 135 million years ago. Natural
fractures or 'gullies', as they are known locally, criss-cross
the Island.
The perfect horseshoe bay of Lulworth Cove was developed
where a stream breached the limestone, allowing the sea to
enter and hollow out the softer clays behind the limestone
barrier. The back wall of the bay is formed by more resistant
chalk. Beside Lulworth another bay is forming at Stair Hole.
Here you will see the famous Lulworth Crumple - a complex
fold formed by major earth movements at the time when the
Alps were formed.
The sheer cliffs of the Purbeck coast are formed by Portland
Stone and Purbeck Limestone, rocks that are well-displayed
in the old cliff quarry workings at Seacombe, Winspit and
Dancing Ledge. The area is also famous for the tracks of
dinosaurs such as Megalosaurus and Iguanodon, and for an
internationally important fossil record of mammal evolution.
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